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Often called the “lungs of the world� for its capacity to absorb of carbon dioxide, a greenhouse gas that warms the planet, has been increasingly choked by wildfires and cleared by cattle ranching.

It is here on the edge of the world's largest tropical rainforest that Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva hopes to convince world powers to mobilize enough funds to halt the ongoing destruction of climate-stabilizing tropical rainforests in danger around the world and make progress on other critical climate goals.

Organizers are hoping this year's Conference of Parties — known less formally as COP30 — will yield commitments of money and action to support the goals laid out at previous such meetings, billing it as the But they'll have to overcome reduced participation from the world's biggest emitters as the heads of the — China, the United States and India — will be notably absent.

These tensions are on display as a preliminary leaders’ gathering gets underway on Thursday before formal U.N. climate talks kick off next week.

US absence looms over leaders’ meeting

, who withdrew the U.S. the same day he entered office, won’t send any senior officials. China will send its deputy prime minister, Ding Xuexiang.

That leaves the rest of the summit’s leaders — including U.K. Prime Minister Keir Starmer, German Chancellor Friedrich Merz, European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen and French President Emmanuel Macron — to confront not only the consequences of an intensifying global climate crisis but a .

Advocates and diplomats have raised concerns that the absence of the U.S. — in convincing China to restrain carbon emissions and securing — could signal a more global retreat from climate politics.

“Trump’s stance affects the whole global balance. It pushes governments further toward denial and deregulation,� said Nadino Kalapucha, the spokesperson for the Amazonian Kichwa Indigenous group in Ecuador. “That trickles down to us, to Ecuador, Peru, Argentina, where environmental protection is already under pressure.�

Trump’s close ideological ally, called human-caused climate change a “socialist hoax,� threatened to quit the Paris Agreement and pulled Argentine negotiators out of last year’s summit in Azerbaijan as part of what he described as a reassessment of climate policy.

Brazil illustrates climate dilemma

Lula, who has and has been widely praised in the Amazon, is hoping to use the conference to push forward action on key climate goals, in contrast to the summits of the past two years that drew legions of oil, gas and coal executives to the major oil-producing nations and the .

He's expected to launch on Thursdays an initiative called the Tropical Forests Forever Fund, which aims to support more than 70 developing countries that commit to rainforest preservation. The official COP website describes the initiative as a “permanent trust fund� that would generate about $4 from the private sector for every $1 contributed.

“We will go past the negotiation of rules to implementation,� Foreign Minister Mauro Vieira told reporters late Wednesday. “It will be the moment when global leaders face with honesty the challenge of climate change.�

But Brazil is also a major oil producer, and contradictions abound. Despite his climate bona fides, Lula has drawn outrage a license to explore oil near the mouth of the Amazon River.

“I don’t want to be an environmental leader,� . “I never claimed to be.�

Logistical headaches for Brazil

A town of 1.3 million inhabitants, Belem had just 18,000 hotel beds before its preparations to host the conference, which typically draws tens of thousands of delegates, environmentalists, company executives, journalists and other members of civil society.

Foreign officials and journalists scrambled to reserve rooms Some booked spots on one of a few docked cruise ships brought into a nearby port for the occasion.

Public schools, military facilities and even the local Internal Revenue Building have been outfitted with air-conditioning and bunk beds to become makeshift hostels. The more adventurous or frugal participants can pay $55 a night to crash in hammocks in a facility that normally caters to cats.

“Some two-legged creatures deserve our generosity, too,� Eugênia Lima, the 59-year-old owner of a local cat hotel that stopped accepting feline guests to seize on spiking demand during COP30. “I am very proud that the world will be looking at us this month.�

Belem's by-the-hour "love motels" have also cashed in, luring civil servants and climate scientists to rooms that would otherwise host prostitutes or couples in need of privacy. Usually $10 an hour, most love motels are charging COP30 guests $200 per night.

Activists find a forum for protest

Large-scale marches, sit-ins and rallies are essential aspects of annual U.N. climate talks, but the previous three summits have taken place in autocratic nations that outlaw most forms of protest. , the and Azerbaijan that facilitate pre-approved protests within a walled-off part of the venue not subject to local laws.

Brazil is a different story. Even before the start of the leaders' summit, on Wednesday demonstrators were reveling in their much-missed freedom. Youth activists, Indigenous leaders and climate campaigners sailed into Belem on vessels outfitted with giant protest banners.

“Action, justice, hope" read one sign strung between the sails of a boat belonging to environmental group Greenpeace. “Respect the Amazon� read another. Dozens disembarked after multi-day river journeys to rally along the coast.

"Being able to protest and dialogue is a great thing about this COP," said Laurent Durieux, a researcher at the U.S.-based International Relief and Development organization who arrived by boat from Santarem, a city 1,200 kilometers (1,000 miles) west of Belem.

“Brazil has a long history of social struggle and that is part of this event."

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